The gypsum culture
The soft stone
A rock you can scratch with a fingernail, and which for centuries was house, street, church, oil mill, economy. Then in thirty years it was all over.
- 17 km
- Half a day
- Moderate
- 5 stops
Gypsum formed six million years ago, when the Mediterranean dried out. At Gessopalena they dug an entire village into it: the only one in Italy. This itinerary lines up the geology, the trade and what is left of it — including the quarries, with the chisel marks still visible.
17 km in all between the first stop and the last, by car, with stops on foot. Approximate distance.
The stops
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The gypsum outcrops
Aventino Valley
How gypsum forms, why there is so much of it here, and why at Gessopalena the village is called “Pretalucente”.
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The rock-hewn village of Gessopalena
Gessopalena
Houses, churches, stables and oil mills cut into the rock. The heart of the itinerary.
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The Gypsum Museum
Gessopalena
It has no rooms of its own: they are the underground spaces of the village. The panels are only there to explain what you are looking at.
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The gypsum quarries and kilns
Aventino Valley
The quarries around the rock, the kilns with one or two shafts, the millstones the donkeys turned.
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La Morgia and “Orizzonti”
Gessopalena
The limestone crag that Samson is said to have carried on his shoulders, with Varotsos's glass closing its wound.
The stops in detail
5 places
Nature
The gypsum outcrops
Rocks formed when the Mediterranean dried out, six million years ago. Soft enough to dig a house into.
Aventino Valley
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Architecture
The rock-hewn village of Gessopalena
Houses, churches, stables and oil mills cut straight into a mountain of gypsum. The only one of its kind in Italy. Razed to the ground on 4 December 1943.
Gessopalena
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Museums
The Gypsum Museum
It has no rooms: they are the dug-out houses of the rock-hewn village. The panels are only there to explain what you are looking at.
Gessopalena
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Archaeology
The gypsum quarries and kilns
Chisel marks, blasting holes, millstones turned by donkeys, cableways: the industrial archaeology of a trade that ended in a few decades.
Aventino Valley
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Art
La Morgia and “Orizzonti”
A crag that legend says Samson carried here on his shoulders. In 1997 Costas Varotsos filled its wound with sheets of glass.
Gessopalena
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